Archive for March, 2006

Portia and Sean

Friday, March 31st, 2006

Yesterday, Portia Simpson-Miller was sworn in as the first-ever female Prime Minister of Jamaica. This is a significant achievement not simply because she is only the second female political leader in the English-speaking Caribbean (the late Dame Eugenia Charles of Dominica has the honour of being the first), but because in Jamaica, testosterone levels seem to run a little higher. That this island nation is now governed by a woman is a BIG deal.

In her inaugural speech as PM, Simpson-Miller marveled that “a GIRL from Wood Hall in rural St. Catherine” had become Prime Minister of Jamaica. This proved, she surmised, that “any child, regardless of circumstances, can rise to the top.”

As she said those words, my thoughts turned to Sean Luke, the murdered six-year old, who had dreams of one day being an engineer that worked on planes and spaceships. Today is a day of protest in Trinidad – we have been asked to wear black and drive with our headlights on in a show of solidarity with Sean’s family. I am disappointed to report that only about 25% of drivers took heed of this request and lack of courtesy on the road was as commonplace as ever.

On the other hand, those of us that did have on our lights were Trinis of all ages, races and income brackets. I also noticed that a lot of male drivers remembered to turn their headlights on – fathers, grandfathers, sons, brothers – and thought this spoke volumes in a nation where men are sometimes not as present as they should be in the lives of their children.

Those charged with Sean’s murder are reportedly minors. I personally feel they should be tried as adults, but a trial without identifying the cause of the crime would be an injustice not only to Sean, but to every other child that may suffer (or is suffering) at the hands of disturbed people that our society is creating. Qualified psychiatrists and child psychologists should be brought in to identify the specific push factors that made these kids so malevolent, so that measures (social, legal) can be put in place to stop such a vicious crime from ever happening again.

As psychologist Anna Maria Mora said in a TV interview this morning, there are two things that separate us from animals – the power to think and the power to choose. Those of us that have those powers need to ensure that those who don’t are given the tools they need to be able to rise above their rage rather than succumb to it.

Our Sorry State

Wednesday, March 29th, 2006

Today, I am ashamed to be a Trinidadian. Today, all 1.5 million of us (although with the murder toll steadily climbing, this population figure may be a tad ambitious) awoke to the horrific news that an innocent child, six-year-old Sean Luke, was buggered to death in the most brutal way imaginable. That anyone can harm a child is unfathomable to me and that we as a country have let the rot get to this stage, even moreso.

The Keith Noel 136 Committee has been at the forefront of the charge against crime, vocalizing the concerns of the law-abiding among us and demanding that our government be held accountable for keeping its citizens safe. But marches, protests, media coverage and letters to the editor all seem to be falling on deaf ears.

Akiel Chambers’ death caused outrage eight years ago. Life went on – Martin Daly is one of the few voices that reminds us each week that the murder is still unsolved and shame on us for that. Dane Andrews suffered just as ghastly a fate. And now Sean Luke. How many more examples of vicious brutality do we need before we say enough and take back our country? We cannot keep rationalizing away the violence, compartmentalizing it so that we can go about our daily lives like sheep, happy to graze in the otherwise pleasant pasture. All the oil and gas money in the world cannot fix this problem and the powers-that-be are fiddling, like Nero with his violin, while Rome burns.

On tonight’s TV6 News, it was reported that the Prime Minister had no comment on the child’s death. His PR person said that he “had not as yet been briefed, and therefore would offer no comment at this time.” Um…what? Does Mr. Manning need to be briefed to simply be a human being? I don’t know the child and I cried for him. I was moved beyond words by the tortured grief on his mother’s face, searching for equilibrium as she tried to make sense of her newly-shattered world. I cried for “sweet, sweet T&T” which is really more bitter these days and all I can say is sorry.

I am sorry that anyone would have that much hatred in them to dehumanize a child that way. I am sorry that police officers had scant respect for the worry of a mother and lost precious – perhaps life-saving – time in looking for Sean. I am sorry that only a few of us see that a plaster on the sore will not solve the problem unless we tackle the seething source of the infection. And I will be sorrier still if this child’s death becomes just another example of Trinbagonians choosing to remain voiceless and accepting less than we deserve as citizens of this good country.

Why Chag is Critical

Tuesday, March 21st, 2006



Erle Noronha & Robert Cadiz kayaking

Originally uploaded by j58.

This past weekend, I spent a lot of time in Chaguaramas. The catalyst was the 5th annual Lucozade Sport North Cross Adventure Race (staged by my brother’s company, ECO Adventures), at which I was asked to officiate. So there I was, headed for Trinidad’s northwest peninsula at a distinctly unreasonable time of the morning – a time when REM (the sleep pattern, not the band) is usually having its way with me. Not being a morning person, I was surprised when drowsiness was replaced by fascination at Chag’s early-morning beauty. The ocean was still and mirror-like, reflecting the rosy pink blush of dawn as she announced her arrival over the hills of Tucker Valley.

The race was scheduled to start at 7:00 a.m. sharp, so by 6:30 a.m. we were readying our Check Point for the barrage of adventure racers who would be making their way along gruelling trails in an effort to follow the directions on their maps and find markers that would lead them to their next destination and ultimately, the glory of the finish line.

CP #1 was a good 12-minute walk into Bunker Road, just beyond the Chaguaramas Golf Course. On either side of us were remnants of Trinidad and Tobago’s involvement in World War II - bunkers, ruins – but the most fascinating part of the trek was the sighting of a Red Howler Monkey teetering at the top of a bamboo patch like something out of Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon. If you’ve never heard Howler Monkeys before, they sound like a cross between gale force winds and a lion’s roar. And if you’ve never seen them, they’re absolutely stunning to look at, with coats of burnt sienna mixed with a generous dash of cinnamon.

What, you may ask, is the point of all this nature talk? Exactly that – Tucker Valley (indeed Chaguaramas as a whole) remains one of the few accessible green spaces for the people of Trinidad to enjoy. The area is widely used not only by agriculturalists and historians, but by athletes, field naturalists, bird watchers, tourists, botanists, mountain bikers, beach-goers and multi-sport racers alike – none of whom have apparently been consulted on the government’s plans to construct low-cost housing in the area.

I have not been privy to these plans; like most other citizens, I read about them in the newspapers. My feeling is, however, that any project with such a large ripple effect on the population (and, I might add, any project using public funds) should have public consultations before being given the green light. I highly doubt that such consultations would result in an endorsement of the project – environmentalists like Professor Julian Kenny have been quite vocal about their view that it is a bad idea. But public outcry apparently hasn’t stopped work from going full steam ahead – there have been sightings of electrical lines being run for miles into hills where some of the most pristine vegetation lies.

I understand that we need to shelter our citizens. This is not a rant against low-cost housing as opposed to upscale housing. Any type of housing in this area will devalue the environmental and historical significance of this valley. While Maslow pointed out that the need for shelter is a basic physiological one, bricks and mortar alone are not transformative. We need to build more than a roof over people’s heads; we need to build communities that support and uplift one another so that we can escape from this mire of criminal behaviour and return to our natural state of human dignity. Countless research studies have proven that green space is a key ingredient in this mix. It is why, no matter how big or how small our properties are, Trinis of every race and social stratum are side by side at Maracas Bay, President’s Grounds, the Queen’s Park Savannah – and yes, Chaguaramas – each weekend. We need to connect with nature. It keeps us sane and somehow, magically, makes us more relaxed and kinder to one another.

But reasons of practicality (and I am nothing if not practical) also point to Chaguaramas being an ill-suited location for this type of development. While its tactically strategic position, with its proximity to the Gulf of Paria, augured well for troops in WWII, it is now counter-productive to any kind of mass development. There is one road in and out of Chaguaramas. Anyone who has been to a fete in Chag knows the frustration of spending more time in traffic than at the party. Build housing in Tucker Valley and you have a concentration of people who have to use that one road to go to work each day (and Port of Spain is a good distance from Chaguaramas, especially when you consider that T&T has no mass transit system). To counteract the daily exodus, you would have to actually create a self-sufficient town, complete with infrastructure and other services like hospitals and schools. (See original point about the need to preserve nature, fast disappearing in this current construction boom).

The other concern is that Chaguaramas, or at least the Tucker Valley portion of it, is effectively a national park. The entire area is managed by the Chaguaramas Development Authority, which was established by a 1972 Act of Parliament to administer and coordinate the development of the northwestern peninsula, including the offshore islands. While the CDA cites, as its principal function, to develop the area “in accordance with national objectives”, shouldn’t “national” encompass the views of the people of the nation? The CDA’s Vision Statement reads:

CHAGUARAMAS will become the Tourism, Entertainment and Recreational destination of the Region through Development of selected areas while maintaining a Pristine Environment.

Their Conceptual Master Plan refers to:

…preserving the integrity of the environment by developing an uplands National Park for the enjoyment and education of the people of Trinidad and Tobago.

In light of this, the plan to introduce housing to the area would require a formal change of use/status for Chaguaramas – and that, at the very least, demands public consultation.

It makes more sense to fix what already exists. Laventille, for instance, sits on prime real estate – views of Port of Spain from atop its breezy hills are breathtaking. The area’s Beetham Estate began as a low cost housing scheme, but it is not enough to hand over keys, take pictures for press releases and move on. Homes are about people. Taking people’s needs, challenges and views into consideration goes a long way to providing insight that leads to long-term solutions – because people are the ones on the ground, facing the traffic or playing rugby at President’s Grounds or living in houses too small for their spirits or running the trails in Chag while they all marvel at how nobody listens to them.

I’ve been tagged…

Sunday, March 19th, 2006

Hmmm…kind of fun to be “it”:

Four jobs I’ve had:
Journalist
Writing Tutor
Radio Announcer/Operator
TV Producer/Production Manager

Four movies I can watch over and over:
The Hours (though I think the last time was the last time)
This is Spinal Tap
Casablanca
Ocean’s 11 (and 12 while we’re at it!)

Four places I have lived:
Trinidad
Canada
(I haven’t actually lived in these other two places, but I’ve spent so much time there I feel like I have):
Grenada
Barbados

Four television shows I love to watch:
Sex and the City reruns
Jeopardy!
The Simpsons (when I was at university, I would often skip my Thursday night class to see it – but we don’t get it in Trinidad)
Dreamscapes

Four places I have been on vacation:
Morocco
France
Spain
Portugal

Four of my favorite dishes:
Seared Tuna
Sushi
Steak Tenderloin
Curry

Four websites I visit daily:
Caribbean Free Radio
Global Voices
Flickr
Apple (okay, maybe not every day, but often enough…)

Four places I would rather be right now:
On my favourite beach in Tobago
Walking my brother’s dogs in Chaguaramas
At this amazing Thai restaurant in London, England
Getting a massage

Four bloggers I am tagging:
Nicholas Laughlin
Christopher at Subway Chronicles
Karen Walrond
Elspeth Duncan at Now is Wow

Here in my car…

Thursday, March 16th, 2006

Just a quick “thank you” to Shawn in Sweden, who, upon reading my Smoke and Mirrors post, has emailed me with a link to a great programme out of BC in Canada called AirCare which, according to Shawn:

“isn’t very expensive for motorists and is self-financing for government. They even have a hotline to report smoking vehicles but the main benefit is the testing program.”

Guess I’ll be making a call to the EMA (and to satify Christopher’s curiosity, I’ll ask that statutory question)…

Smoke and Mirrors

Wednesday, March 15th, 2006



Driving into POS

Originally uploaded by j58.

Trinidad and Tobago is a country where, when you think about it, the environment plays a large part in not only our lifestyle, but the quality of that lifestyle. We can thank our lush rain forests (some of which now have to be preserved by private organizations) for pegging T&T as a world-renowned eco-tourism destination. Our seemingly unending natural resources have made our energy-reliant economy buoyant and the fact that Trinis can head for the beach and enjoy pretty good weather at practically any time of the year makes this a pretty darned good place to live.

In fact, the environment is so important that the government of Trinidad and Tobago has established a statutory body to address the country’s environmental concerns – the Environmental Management Authority – which is committed to, and I quote:

“protecting and conserving the natural environment to enhance the quality of life by promoting environmentally responsible behaviour, development and enforcement of environmental legislation, encouragement of voluntary compliance, the use of economic and other incentives. This is to be achieved in an atmosphere of mutual respect, professionalism, accountability, transparency, collaboration and social responsibility.”

Whew. I’m already tired and I haven’t even got halfway through The Strategic Plan document 2003-2008 (though it concerns me that we’re closer to 2008 than 2003 and positive results are questionable given T&T’s ongoing problems with flooding, littering, etc.) which talks about a “deepening of purpose” towards “the most relevant environmental and human health goals that will have the most profound impact on our population”. These apparently comprise Clean Air, Clean Water, Healthy Ecosystems, Less Noise and Improved Waste Management.

I’m not going to raise the question of the Environmental Trust Fund, more commonly referred to as the Green Fund , which is meant to save revenue gained from a variety of sources (annual government appropriations, permit fees and international grants) for environmental projects, education and maintenance. There have already been countless outcries about public accountability in that area. I want to deal with the first point on the EMA’s list – the air we breathe – only because I have personally offered what I think is a viable solution for one aspect of the problem – vehicle emissions.

Why is it that in the fifteen minutes it takes me on any given morning to drive from Point A to Point B, I have to inhale the filthy exhaust of at least three poorly maintained maxi-taxis and a car or two that should have been hauled off the road long ago? I’m not talking sputtering mufflers here. This is smoke that surreptitiously finds its way in through sealed windows and air conditioning; smoke so thick it needs a bad-ass theme song. I inadvertently find myself scrolling down to Deep Purple on my iPod. And while music may be the solution to a great many things, I think my suggestion, vocalized two years ago to an EMA manager (who may have since left), was a common-sense resolution: install a hotline.

That’s it, no rocket science involved. Just an easy-to-remember toll-free number (or not – heck, I’ll pay for the call!) that commuters can dial from their mobile phones and report the license plate numbers of offending drivers. Once the EMA works with the Licensing Authority (the government is currently in the throes of a wonderful IT project that aims to have all government offices networked and available online), they can track down the offenders and enforce the legislation that is, at the moment, a barking dog with no bite. The only way for Trinis to hear is to feel – so slap on some hefty fines and suddenly a regular visit to the mechanic is on everyone’s schedule.

I understand that environmental management is a tough job, but somebody’s gotta do it and the EMA has picked up the mantle. I’m ready to do my part if they’re willing to do theirs.

The Path to Hell

Wednesday, March 8th, 2006



The Path to Hell

Originally uploaded by j58.

…is paved with good intentions. And apparently, there are also road signs. (Just in case you were wondering how to get there).

The Great Carnival Escape: Day 9 – Hell Rock

Wednesday, March 8th, 2006



Hell Rock

Originally uploaded by j58.

If you want to see Hell on Earth, just head for the Cayman Islands! There’s an area on Grand Cayman so named since the 1930s, when a visiting dignitary expressed the opinion that the West Bay area of the island looked like the Devil’s stomping ground.

According to Hell’s experts, this stunning rock formation has evolved from skeletons of marine life – coral and shells all fused together by salt and lime deposits. Natural movements of the earth (quakes, plate shifts, water) have aided in sculpting the raised sections of the formation and organic/ocean residue lends a dark, jagged and pitted texture to the rocks. The result is a fascinatingly oppressive vista.

The rock has been about 20 million years in the making, delineated by a thin green line just below the surface that signals new life – quite fittingly, algae and bacteria. Years before, much of where the rock is was a reef, so it’s just a matter of time before the new reef, forming a short distance off shore, um – how shall I put this? – goes to Hell!

The Great Carnival Escape: Day 9 – Grand Cayman

Wednesday, March 8th, 2006



Grand Cayman

Originally uploaded by j58.

The prettiest port of call was Grand Cayman, which has recovered quite remarkably after the near total devastation of Hurricane Ivan in September 2004. My stepfather has family in Cayman, and they graciously shuttled us around the island, pointing out areas that had been completely destroyed by Ivan’s wrath. Mia, whose family stayed throughout the ordeal, says that when Ivan was done with the island, people’s homes looked like the doll houses of her childhood – you could see right though them – catch glimpses of furniture, art, family mementos, all ravaged by the storm.

Reconstruction is happening at a pace – architects and building contractors are happy campers right now, and apparently many new homes have plans that include “safe rooms” in the event of another monster storm. “People realize that they may not be able to entirely protect their homes,” Mia said. “But they can protect themselves.”

The Great Carnival Escape: Day 7 – Costa Maya

Tuesday, March 7th, 2006



Me with Kana’ab

Originally uploaded by j58.

Go ahead. Try to find Costa Maya, Mexico on Google Earth. Betcha can’t. That’s because it’s not an actual town – it’s the name of the port that was built specifically with cruise ship tourism in mind. The town is Mahahual, and if you so much as blink while your bus passes through, you might just miss it entirely. But that hasn’t stopped shops, bars and (largely empty) brand-new hotels from springing up around it in the hope that it may just evolve into another Cancun. There’s a lot of investment riding on it – a fully-equipped deep water harbour and the typical “sun, sea and sand” offering to go with it. Can you say tequila?

The result is that the locals, much of whom are of Mayan ancestry, have more steady work. Real estate is picking up with promises of “owning a piece of paradise”, the buzz is circulating about this new destination. But with it comes the sacrifice of the simpler life, one that was more connected with the land. The land now seems to be yielding bounty of a different sort.

Not all Mexicans are comfortable with the change. My mother, stepfather, aunt and uncle who chose to do a “Reality Tour” in Costa Maya, met a Mayan family whose patriarch has sent his children to university to ready them for the developing world around them. But education has provided more than he bargained for – his kids are now more interested in iPods than in cocoa pods. It’s an interesting dilemma; one that will have to be constantly re-negotiated as the area grows to meet tourism demands, while struggling to hold on to the tradition that makes the destination different from any other.

Our experience in Costa Maya, by contrast, was again water-based and in many ways the highlight of the trip – we swam with dolphins! The Delphinus facility, 100% Mexican-owned, was impressive, stressing respect towards the mammals and providing a thorough safety briefing before we were even allowed in the water with them. I have to admit, I was in two minds about the whole thing, being the type that can’t stand to see birds in cages (or any wild animal in captivity for that matter). But I started to feel better as I learned more about the facility and saw how wonderfully the dolphins were being treated. Delphinus is involved in ongoing research projects about the life and reproduction of dolphins – international scientific studies have all pointed to the mental and physical benefits of human/dolphin interaction. The Costa Maya facility has had tremendous success with live births and often participates in the rescue and rehabilitation of stranded dolphins, so by the time I donned my life jacket and got into the water to meet Kana’ab (Mayan for Ocean), I was convinced that it would be a wonderful experience.

We spent about twenty-five glorious minutes in the water with Kana’ab and his cohorts, learning new things about the species and stroking their amazingly strong bodies as they swam alongside. In that short period of time, I was a child again, gleeful and wide-eyed. The feel of their skin was smooth, yet muscular, but the most enduring impression was made not by their physical presence, but by their spirit. Kana’ab seemed to feel especially comfortable with Mark, to the point where the trainer volunteered him to do most of the one-on-one interaction. As Mark said so aptly after the whole experience, “Dolphins have such pure souls.”